Iberian Varieties in Australia
A long and continuing story
Spanish and Portuguese varieties have been part of the Australian wine scene since its start in the Nineteenth Century. However, their role has been overlooked and underestimated in the popular understanding.
~~~ We will be discussing Iberian varieties at our next Taste and Talk on Thursday September 18. ~~~
Are These Iberian?
There are a few varieties used in Australia that we don’t normally associate with Iberia.
Cabernet Franc actually originated in Spain.
The variety we call Grenache is actually Garnacha from Spain.
Mourvèdre, aka Mataro, is Monastrell, also from Spain.
Bastardo, which has been used for “Port” both in Australia and in Portugal was thought to be of Portuguese origin. We now know it to be Trousseau from the Jura region of Eastern France.
The Fortified Wine Era in Australia
From about 1900 to 1960 if you used the word wine in Australia most people would think you were talking about fortified wines - usually “Port” or “Sherry” or perhaps “Tokay” or “Muscat”. Also during this era wines were rarely labelled with the name of the variety.
Grenache was widely used for port styles. It was often accompanied by the Portuguese varieties Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cao, Tinta Barocco, Sousao and others.
Table wines were known and appreciated only by a minority. Now the situation is vastly different. These days we experience a much wider range of Iberian varieties in table wines.
Iberian Varieties Today
Tempranillo is now almost a mainstream variety in Australia. Its origin is Spanish, but it also has a Portuguese name Tinta Roriz. There are more than 400 Australian wineries using this variety.
While Grenache has been around for ages, mostly in blends, it has become much more popular as a varietal over the past few years, coinciding with the trend towards lighter bodied reds.
Touriga Nacional is one of the leading varieties in Portugal. About 100 Australian wineries use it, in blends or as a varietal. In Australia it is most commonly referred to as ‘Touriga’ which is a bit confusing as there is another variety called Touriga Franca. Until recently there was little or no France grown in Australia, even though it is more widely grown in Portugal than Nacional. Wines By Farquhar in the Barossa now use Franca, and more wineries are likely to follow suit.
The word tinto or tinta (feminine) means dyed or coloured in both Spanish and Portuguese. In winespeak it is used to denote red. There are many Iberian varieties, and many more synonyms whose name includes tinta or tinto. Tinto Cao translates as ‘red dog’ - perhaps a good variety to be sipping while watching that eponymous Aussie movie.
Graciano is commonly used in Spain in blends with Tempranillo but it is often a varietal wine in Australia. The most exciting red wine variety recently introduced to Australia is Mercia. This variety is described as ‘Gamay with bull’s horns’ because of its loads of fruit flavours combined with a firm structure.
Carignan is a controversial variety. It was largely responsible for the notorious ‘European wine lake’ a few decades go. It is most often used in blends but there are a few enthusiastic winemakers who make varietal wines. In Australia Bonvedro has often been confused with Carignan, so that many vineyards formerly thought to be Carignan are in fact Bonvedro.
The newest Iberian red wines varieties to be introduced are Alfrochiero and Prieto Picudo.
The most exciting Iberian white wines to emerge in Australia over the past few decades are Albarino and Arinto. The former, also known by its Portuguese name Alvarinho, was the subject of a mix-up with the French variety Savagnin but has recovered to be used by about 50 wineries. Arinto is popular in Portugal. It has attracted attention in Australia as a variety suitable for hot climates, think Riverland, because of its water efficiency and ability to retain acidity during heatwaves.
Palomino and Pedro Ximenez are the mainstays of the various sherry styles from Jerez in southern Spain. They have long been used in Australia to make sherry look-alikes but nowadays we call these wines Apera.
Despite their similar names, Verdelho and Verdejo are distinct varieties. Verdelho is famous for making sweet fortified Madeira on the eponymous Portuguese island in the Atlantic. In Australia it is most commonly used to make fruity dry whites, especially in warmer areas like the Hunter. Verdejo is the aromatic Spanish grape variety used for the crisp white wines of the Rueda region north-west of Madrid. Just a few Australian wineries use Verdejo to make dry white wines.
What is your favourite Australian wine made from an Iberian variety? And what food do you think would be good to serve with it?
Roll Call of Iberian Varieties in Australia
Portugal: Albarino (W), Alfrocheiro (R), Alvarelhão (R), Antao Vaz (W), Arinto (W), Azal (W), Cornifesto (R), Fernão Pires (W), Souzão (R), Tinta Barocca (R), Tinto Cao (R), Touriga Franca (R), Touriga Nacional (R), Trincadeira (R), Verdelho (W).
Spain: Bonvedro (R), Cabernet Franc (R), Carignan (R), Doradillo (W), Graciano (R), Grenache (R), Grenache Blanc (W), Grenache Gris (G), Macabeo (W), Mencia (R), Negramoll (R), Palomino (W), Parellada (W), Pedro Ximenez (W), Prieto Picudo (R), Tempranillo (R), Verdejo (W).
Wine Puzzle Book
You can be the first to get your hands on this book. First published on Tuesday 9 September you can pre-order it now.
Looking for the perfect way to while away an evening? Simply crack open your favourite bottle of vino and dive into The Wine Puzzle Book. Filled to the brim with wine-themed puzzles and trivia, this delightful activity book provides hours of entertainment for both connoisseurs and humble enthusiasts alike.
As well as classic conundrums, crosswords, sudokus and more, you'll also find trivia questions that will put even the most ardent aficionado's knowledge to the test.
While visiting QBD1 you can browse the online bookshop for other wine books including Max Allen’s Alternative Reality.
Refresh Your Cellar for Spring
Wine Selectors have some interesting offers labelled Spring Alternatives with bonus bottles. As usual they are attractively priced and feature wines by a range of producers from different regions. Highly recommended.
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I have recently started enjoying the Trousseau from Orbis Wines. It has become my favourite mid-weight red that goes easily with most meals especially as we now move towards warmer days and lighter cuisine. Thanks for your article.
Good intro to this subject. Thank you