What is a workhorse variety?

plus an invitation to a social get together.

Some varieties develop a reputation for producing inferior wine. And in an industry where word of mouth and fashions change these reputations stick.

British wine writer Jancis Robinson uses the euphemism “workhorse varieties” to describe these social out casts. They are at the other end of the spectrum to the so called premium varieties - Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

But just as in the past workhorses performed valuable functions while the show ponies looked down their noses, workhorse wine grape varieties are well worth their keep.

Workhorses were much more popular until about half a century ago when quality started to be more important than quantity. Some of us are old enough to remember the sco sacced European Wine Lake, full of thin, low alcohol red wine. The market for vin ordinaire, which demanded high yields as low alcohol has gone. But the varieties which supplied that market still carry some of the reputation.

What are the workhorse varieties?

Some of these will be familiar to you, because they have shaken of their reputation, or they are now known for producing in more appropriate terroir and with more respectful winemaking.

Airen is the fourth most planted grape in the world. Virtually all of it in Spain where it is used for bulk white wines and for distillation into grape spirit and brandy. Plantings are declining rapidly and it seems unlikely it will ever be used to make premium wines.

Carignan is known as Mazuelo in its place of origin in NW Spain. It used to be grown extensively in Southern France and was a major contributor to that aforementioned lake. Plantings declining.

Grenache sort of qualifies as a workhorse variety. It used to a major contributor to fortified red (ports) in Australia. Many vineyards were pulled out but now it is important for making table wines.

Chenin Blanc is responsible for the wonderful wines of the middle reaches of the Loire - still and sparkling, dry, off dry and sweet. But in warmer climates the variety is capable of producing high yields, and consequently rather characterless wine. This was Chenin Blanc’s role in South Africa and Western Australia in particular. The reputation has stuck, but you will find a few devotees around.

Malbec was Argentina’s workhorse variety. Great for producing rough reds cheaply. But then the Argentines, and the rest of the world found that Malbec can make excellent wines. In Australia it was frequently used in blends with Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, before fading in popularity until a return to favour in the first decade of this century.

What is your favourite workhorse variety?

There will be more workhorse varieties discussed in this week’s Taste and Talk.

The Taste and Talk sessions are held at 5.30 pm on Thursdays. Is this a convenient time for you?

---

If you didn’t receive this newsletter via email please subscribe via the button below. And please share this newsletter with interested friends.