Why Grape Varieties Matter
This article is based on an extract from the third edition of the book Emerging Varietal Wines of Australia, published in late 2014. It has been edited for this post.
In a recent post1 I described just what wine grape varieties are.
There are thousands of different grape varieties used to make wine. In the monumental book Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz, 1368 varieties are listed and described. Most are used commercially at least somewhere in the world, about 180 of these are used fairly commonly, while the top ten make up about 40% of the area planted to grapes worldwide.
Why do Varieties Matter
Wine varieties differ from each other in numerous characteristics which may or may not be of interest to the grape grower, the winemaker and finally the consumer.
Virtually every characteristic of the grape vine and the grape itself differs from variety to variety. Ampelographers - people skilled at vine identification - use factors such as the shape and size of shoots, leaves, bunches, individual grapes and seeds to distinguish between varieties. It was always a slightly inaccurate science. Many varieties were confused, and the exact identity of the vines in many vineyards is still being sorted out now. The issue with Petit and Gros Manseng is the latest in a long line of mishaps. I am sure it won’t be the last.
Since the mid 1990s, DNA profiling has been commonly used. It provides an objective method of identification and, as a bonus, it also reveals parent-offspring or sibling relationships between varieties. Thus, quite elaborate pedigrees for grape varieties can be constructed. Many of these are illustrated in Jancis Robinson's Wine Grapes.
Grape skin colour is one of the most obvious differences between grape varieties.
The most obvious difference between varieties is the skin colour of the grape. In simple terms, varieties are either red or white (really dark purple or green). In fact there are gradations of colour - many shades of green through to quite golden yellow skin, various pinkish-bronze colours which are often called gris or grey, through to various hues in the red, purple and black spectrum.
Perhaps the next most significant trait from the grape growers point of view is the time to maturity. Some wine grape varieties ripen much earlier than others, by up to six or more weeks in some climates. Late maturing varieties, for example Grenache or Mourvedre will not ripen at all in colder wine growing regions.
Early maturing varieties such as Pinot Noir and Riesling will ripen in hot climates, but grapes that ripen in very hot conditions and usually do not make good wine. For this reason, early ripening varieties are most commonly found in cool to cold wine regions.
Over the centuries grape growers have selected varieties which give high yields in their particular region, but over the past few decades wine quality has become more important than quantity.
Grape varieties also differ widely in their susceptibility or resistance to disease. This is especially important in areas where there is summer and autumn humidity and rainfall, which creates conditions suitable for the spread of fungal diseases.
Until the middle of the twentieth century wine consumers knew little about grape varieties. Wine was marketed under the name of styles, regions and producers and often the name of merchants.
In Australia for example, wines were frequently labelled Moselle, Hock, White Burgundy, or Chablis for whites, and Claret, Burgundy and Hermitage for reds. The names were taken from European regions and were supposed to indicate the style of wine.
The rise of varietal labelling
Now the grape variety used to make a wine is now prominently displayed on the label and consumers are much more aware of grape varieties.
There are downsides to varietal labelling.
The grape variety used to make wine is only one factor in the makeup of the final product. The terrior of the region is obviously important, but by far the most important factor is the skill of the viticulturist and the winemaker.
What does the consumer need to know?
Less sophisticated wine drinkers are really more interested in the style of wine than the varietal composition. Not all wines made from a particular variety are similar in taste.
Wines differ widely in the level of sweetness, acidity, alcohol, body and tannins. These characteristics are all heavily influenced by winemaking techniques, more so than the grape variety used. Unfortunately, information about these is absent from most wine labels, at best you might find some hints in the rather floral language on the back label.
Another problem is that varietal labelling leads many to think that straight varietal wines are somehow superior to blends. This is not always the case.
A Wine Offer
Try this offer. Thirteen to the dozen. Ave price under $18. An eclectic mix of alternative varieties and blends.
PS while you are there you might like to check Co-chairs Corner offers. An interesting comparison of emerging and classic varieties.
Darby’s Taste and Talk
The next episode of Darby’s Taste and Talk will be at 5pm on Thursday 21 March. Put it in your diary. I’ll send details closer to the event.
What is a wine variety?
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What does the consumer need to know? The points you make are important for the average consumer