I recently had a few days in Western Australia. When I told friends about this the reaction largely was
Did you spend time in Margaret River?
Well, yes and no. I have nothing against Margaret River, but there are more interesting ways to spend my time in Western Australia. I realise this is not a popular view, especially for those who enjoy overpriced Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardy.
Here’s what I did instead
To the east of Perth is the Darling Escarpment, aka the Darling Range. With altitudes up to 400m this region is just a bit cooler than the coastal plain. It is home to orchards and the Perth Hills Wine Region1.
There are just dozen or two vineyards and wineries there but the one I visited was La Fattoria.
This winery and orchard reflects the Sicilian roots of the family. There is a restaurant as well as a tasting room. Food and wine are in separately mixed here. The varieties here include Barbera, Biancone, Brachetto, Fiano, Montepulciano, Nebbiolo, Nero d'Avola, Pignoletto, Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Vermentino. The Brachetto and the Pignoletto are used for sparkling wines. You can also find Sparkling Granny Smith Cider, Grappa, Limoncello and Fig leaf Liqueur.
We had a delicious multi course lunch here, aptly named Nonna’s Family Table (Nonna is Italian for Grandma). Emphasis was on local produce and Italian style I hadn’t met chisciol before. These are buckwheat pancakes - a Northern Italian speciality. They were as the starter with rocket salad. Eventually we got to the pear cake. We could see the pear trees from the deck. Don’t come here if you are in a hurry, the experience is about food and wine at a leisurely pace.
A highly recommended place to visit, just an easy drive from the City of Perth. Book ahead. See more at La Fattoria Website.
The Geographe Region
I love this region2. It is an hour or two south of Perth. I suspect many people drive through here on their way to Margaret River, blissfully unaware of the treasures they are missing out on. There are a number of interesting wineries scattered through a varied landscape. We were lucky enough to visit a few which had some interesting alternative and Rare Ozzies3 wines.
Smallwater Estate
The address of the winery is Tramline Road. It doesn’t look like a tram has been here lately though. To get to the winery you need to travel a few kilometres along a dusty road, probably more dusty than usual for our visit as South West Western Australia is in severe drought at the moment. But the dust is worth putting up with for the rewards at the end.
Owner John Small is clearly a man of large passions. He has excavated numerous dams on the property and he used them to irrigate his vines and to grow marron. These are freshwater crustaceans native to WA. In the restaurant you can enjoy the marron in a delicious pie. Again, book ahead for lunch.
Besides marron John has a passion for Zinfandel. He uses it to make a lovely dry red wine and a liqueur port. He has had great success with his Rose made from that variety, it is named Roze, a subtle hint for its composition. This wine has a trophy and a few gold medals at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine show.
John is also proud of his Shiraz which was recently judged second Best in Australia and best in WA. Smallwater also has some Fiano planted which will be interesting to see in a couple of years.
Barrecas Wines
Between Smallwater Estate and the town of Donnybrook is Barrecas Wines. You can get there on the sealed road. No dust.
This is another winery property which has a stamp of Italy about it. Not just grapes but olive trees. And an intangible sense that you are being welcomed into a family enterprise.
You will find an excellent range of red wines here - Barbera, Malbec, Nebbiolo, Pinotage, Sangiovese, Zinfandel. As far as I know this is the only winery using the South African Pinotage variety in WA. My favourite? Hard to separate the Zinfandel and the Barbera. I ordered some of each.
The cellar door is open 7 days a week. Some impressive reds as well as white and red fortified wines Chardonnay and Viognier. There is also olive oil.
Vineyard 28
What’s the colourful feather got to do with wine? Well it’s all about a parrot with a distinctive call like ‘twenty-eight’. And there are plenty of these beautiful birds around this winery.
This estate is on the northern edge of the Geographe Region is owned and operated by Mark and Pippa, lovers of Italian varieties, and they do them very well. Their varieties include Arneis, Fiano, Brachetto, Dolcetto, Montepulciano, Moscato, Nebbiolo, Pignoletto.
Like La Fattoria, above, they use Pignoletto to make a sparkling wine, in this case it is bone dry. Vineyard 29 was one of the pioneers of Arneis in WA and it still does well.
People with a smattering of Italian language like myself know that dolcetto means little sweet one. But the grape is more often used for dry wines. Vineyard 28 makes a ripper dry Dolcetto, but don’t take my word for it. In 2023 their Dolcetto scored a gold medal at the 2023 AAVWS. But not to disappoint wine-loving cunning linguists Vineyard 28 make the sweet Dolcetto Freddo, meant to be served chilled.
On my visit I got the impression that Mark was most interested in his Nebbiolo which also scored a gold medal at the 2023 AAVWS.
Amato Vino
Well, this one really is in the Margaret River Wine Region. In fact it is in the village of Witchcliffe about 10 minutes South of the Margaret River township.
But it is a bit different to other wineries in the region.
Nowhere else in the region can you find a winery offering such delights as Teroldego, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Primitivo, Nero d’Avola, Marsanne, Trousseau, Savagnin. All solid alternative varieties, a selection of which is on tasting in the funky cellar door with an alternative vibe. Just the antidote you might need after spending time at neighbouring wineries trying to work out which overpriced Cabernet Sauvignon you prefer.
Our Next Taste and Talk
Our next session will be held on Thursday 16 May 2024.
The theme will be obscure wine regions. click link below for details.
See the Vinodiversity page of Perth Hills
My Rare Ozzies book is still available.
I was in Margret River briefly earlier this year. I was there for over 70s Veterans Cricket Australia Nationals. I only got to a couple of wineries on our day off. Hay Shed Hill was good. Anyway, I have saved your suggestions for our new trip west.